For the first time, the fashion world celebrated menswear this July for the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men's, held at Skylight Clarkson Square. As a lover of all things fashion, and fashion adjacent, I decided to profile the show and highlight some of the styles, both hair and fashion, that we are seeing in the post-production light.
Thom Browne works a kind of alchemy with his fashion shows: he makes the familiar buttoned-up business men in gray suits deeply, deeply strange (those suits stop at the ankles). The same philosophy extends to the way he treats grooming: Thom Browne hair is super functional, and also pretty weird. To recreate these 1950’s inspired Olympian do’s, start with damp hair, comb in a deep side part, and go crazy slicking everything back with all that gel - it’ll work for guys with anything but really short hair.
Todd Snyder’s Fashion Week show on Tuesday felt decidedly...breezy. The designer based the looks on his trips to Italy’s Riviera and Amalfi Coast; the looks—lots of lightweight suits with sandals; tonal greens, blues, and tans—were straight out of the Continental Playboy with Good Taste playbook. Fittingly, the hair was about as relaxed as you would be once you hit Cinque Terre: low-key and a little mussed. To obtain that no muss, no fuss look at home, we’re quoting Sabrina Michals from Bumble and bumble who spearheaded the creation of these looks.Here’s what she said, “The regular dude gets out of the shower, towel-dries his hair, puts in three ingredients - [B&B] grooming creme, thickening spray, and gel—and lets it air dry. And then he brushes his teeth and shaves his beard. That’s it.”
We like any haircare regimen that ends with “That’s it.”
You don’t need to be an international male model to get runway-worthy hair (though it helps). Here’s how to get the haircuts seen at New York Fashion Week: Men’s without walking a catwalk—or breaking the bank. Check them out!
The Cut: A full scissor trim all around, going from longer on top to tapered on the sides. For a more significant part with less maintenance, you could experiment with getting the part lightly shaved in.
The Upkeep: Comb your hair out first, then style it with mild water and dry wax (Sumowax from Bumble and bumble) to keep it sharp and slick.
The Cut: A longer to shorter cut from front to back. Keeping the front a little longer gets that nice, sloping progression. Medium to thick hair is required for this cut. Thin hair won’t slick back, and you need a little bit of thickness to push the top back so it will stay up in the front.
The Upkeep: Comb your hair first, then add pomade (try Pomade by 18.21) in the front and the sides to give it a little bit of shine.
The Cut: It’s an undercut, where the top and the sides are cut separately and not blended together. The top has to be significantly longer than the sides, which can be cut with scissors or a machine.
The Upkeep: Pomade or gel (You’ll love the Davines Medium Hold Modeling Gel) sculpted with a classic comb.
The Cut: Shave the sides with clippers. Up top, the only structure you’re looking for is a lot of choppiness. To get that texture, make sure your barber uses chunky scissors that have bigger teeth instead of thinning sheers.
The Upkeep: Full finger styling, working dry wax or paste (Bumble and bumble has both! Try Sumowax or Sumotech) into towel-dried hair. Swap the wax with pomade to add some shine.
The Cut: Ask for a textured top with a side part. The top portion has a gradual progression from one-finger length in the back to one-and-a-half to two-finger length in the front to create a distinction. Have your barber texture out the entire top to get nice waves and not one big clump.
The Upkeep: Use a jagged brush or four fingers with a little gel (Davines has a Strong Hold Cream Gel that would be great!).
The Cut: This is like a top mullet that starts with long hair thinned out a lot. The top is pushed forward while still having full sides. Ask for a full scissor cut all around, with a lot of thinning and chopping up top.
The Upkeep: Go into the root or mostly air-dried hair with just your fingers and dry wax (Davines has a Strong Dry Wax) to create the body. Start from the root out.
The Cut: Simply shave the sides, finger cut the front, and chop into the top with regular scissors.
The Upkeep: Don’t use thick product that would strip naturally wavy hair of its movement. Use a texture cream (much like Texture Cream by Bumble and bumble) with only your fingers.
The Cut: This is a contrast cut. On top, chop into the ends and give it more of a triangular point down front versus a straight-across bang. Shave the sides down. There’s no real transition between the long top and short sides. You want that sudden drop.
The Upkeep: With very little dry wax (A pea sized amount of Medium Hold Pliable Paste by Davines), move the front around with your fingers to create that piece-y look.
The Cut: The average buzz cut isn’t too short. Ask for a 3 1/2 clipper setting all around. If you have a nice scalp, then you can go as short as you want. Ask your barber to “line up” the edges for an extra crisp look. Any texture works, but the key to a good-looking buzz cut is a full face with a strong jaw line.
The Upkeep: If you want to give your buzz cut a wet effect, put a little pomade (Consider Clay by 18.21 should do the trick) into it. There’s still some texture so you can style it, but the beautiful thing about a buzz cut is you don’t have to do anything if you don’t want to. In the morning, you can just get up and go. Good maintenance for a buzz cut is about every three weeks.
The Cut: Full scissor cut, lightly layered on the ends to catch some air. Ask for a blunt edge, with a little texture on the ends to break it up. The look is mostly one length with a few cut layers right on top.
The Upkeep: Use a blow dryer and a little bit of styling oil on the ends (Blow dry with Hairdresser’s Oil and finish witha few sprays of Surf Infusion, both by Bumble and bumble). Add a touch of pomade at the root to maintain the center part.
Overall, this event seemed to be decidedly more “chill” than it’s Bryant Park equivalent. It’s a lot more feasible for a guy to throw down $150 for a cool pair of jeans, than $3,000 for the latest “It” sandal. Across the board, what we’re seeing come out of NYFW:M is a lot more style than we traditionally see in the ready-to-wear and couture collections.
For us guys, a well-fitting t-shirt, tailored pants, the right blazer and most importantly, the right haircut, will get you out of the door looking more dapper than our friend Dan. Whatever your style, remember one thing; Simplicity is the ultimate form of sophistication.
That’s all you need to remember.
Yours in style,